游黄山日记

​​《游黄山日记》原文​

（明·徐霞客《徐霞客游记》后附“游黄山日记后”，为两次游历合记）
​初游（万历四十四年，1616年）​​
癸丑之三月晦，自白岳下山，十里，至汤口。五里，至汤寺，浴于汤池。扶杖望朱砂庵而登。十里，上黄泥冈。向时云里诸峰，渐渐透出，亦渐渐落吾杖底。转入石门，越天都侧，攀莲花峰而登，上至平天矼。矼之东南，危崖独耸，即鲫鱼背也。路旁一歧东上，乃昔所未至者，遂前趋直上，几达天都侧。复北上，行石罅中。石峰片片夹起，路宛转石间，塞者凿之，陡者级之，断者架木通之，悬者植梯接之。下瞰峭壑阴森，枫松相间，五色纷披，灿若图绣。因念黄山当生平奇览，而有奇若此，前未一探，兹游快且愧矣！
时夫仆俱阻险行后，余遂循崖攀萝，独登天都峰。峰顶平如掌，四望空碧，无纤毫障碍。俯瞰群山，如螺如髻，罗列足下。云海翻涌，峰尖若岛屿浮沉。久之，返平天矼，循旧路下。
​再游（崇祯六年，1633年）​​
初四日，自白岳复至汤口。由汤寺、慈光寺之间，登朱砂峰。万峰簇簇，争奇竞秀，若为余今日复出设也。过慈光寺，从左上，石峰环夹，其中石级为积雪所平，一望如玉。疏木茸茸，微见僧舍。行数里，至天都峰。峰高风悍，雾气去来无定。余两足麻木，扶杖而行，至峰顶，俯瞰诸峰，若揖若拜，簇簇环列，如儿孙拱卫。
初五日，至莲花峰。峰顶方圆丈许，中凹如釜，可容数十人。余坐其中，仰观天都、光明顶诸峰，皆在襟袖间。云雾时开时合，峰形变幻，忽如仙山楼阁，忽如猛兽搏斗。下莲花峰，至玉屏峰。峰前有巨石如屏，上刻“玉屏风”三字。旁有古松，枝干盘曲，名“迎客松”。
初六日，观“人字瀑”。瀑自悬崖分两股飞泻，如“人”字，声震山谷。复至光明顶，顶平旷，可容万人。四望群山，尽收眼底。云海翻腾，日出时，金光万道，峰尖若镀金。
初七日，出山，至歙县。

​中文翻译​

（明朝）​第一次游历（万历四十四年，1616年）​​
癸丑年三月的最后一天，我从白岳山下来，走了十里，到达汤口。又行五里，到汤寺，在温泉池中沐浴。拄着手杖遥望朱砂庵，开始登山。走了十里，登上黄泥冈。先前云雾笼罩的诸峰，渐渐显露出来，也渐渐落到我的手杖底下。转入石门，绕过天都峰侧面，攀登莲花峰，一直上到平天矼。平天矼东南方，一座危崖独自耸立，那就是鲫鱼背。路旁有一条向东的小路，是以前未曾到过的地方，于是向前直上，几乎到达天都峰侧面。再向北走，穿梭在石缝中。石峰一片片夹道而起，道路在石间蜿蜒，阻塞处凿通，陡峭处修成台阶，断裂处架木搭桥，悬空处竖梯连接。向下俯瞰，幽深的峡谷阴森可怖，枫树与松树相间，五彩斑斓，灿烂如锦绣。我于是想，黄山是我生平所见最奇特的景观，如此奇绝之景，先前竟未探访，此次游览既痛快又惭愧！
当时挑夫仆人都因险阻落在后面，我便沿着山崖攀援藤萝，独自登上天都峰。峰顶平坦如手掌，四面望去，天空碧蓝，没有丝毫障碍。俯瞰群山，像螺蛳像发髻，罗列在脚下。云海翻涌，峰尖像岛屿在波涛中浮沉。许久，返回平天矼，沿旧路下山。
​第二次游历（崇祯六年，1633年）​​
初四日，从白岳再次来到汤口。从汤寺、慈光寺之间，登上朱砂峰。万座山峰簇拥在一起，争奇斗秀，仿佛是为我今日复出而设。经过慈光寺，从左侧上山，石峰环绕夹峙，其中的石阶被积雪覆盖，一片洁白如玉。稀疏的树木茸茸生长，隐约可见僧舍。行数里，到达天都峰。峰高风猛，雾气来去不定。我的双脚麻木，拄着手杖前行，到峰顶后，俯瞰群峰，它们像作揖像叩拜，簇拥环列，如儿孙拱卫尊长。
初五日，登上莲花峰。峰顶方圆一丈左右，中间凹陷如锅，可容纳数十人。我坐在其中，仰观天都峰、光明顶诸峰，都在衣袖之间。云雾时而散开时而聚拢，峰形变幻，忽而像仙山楼阁，忽而像猛兽搏斗。下莲花峰，到玉屏峰。峰前有巨石如屏风，上面刻着“玉屏风”三字。旁边有古松，枝干盘曲，名为“迎客松”。
初六日，观赏“人字瀑”。瀑布从悬崖分两股飞泻而下，如“人”字形，声音震响山谷。再到光明顶，顶上平坦开阔，可容纳万人。四面望去，群山尽收眼底。云海翻腾，日出时，金色光芒万道，峰尖如同镀了金。
初七日，出山，到达歙县。

​英文翻译​

​Travel Diary of Huangshan Mountain​
(By Xu Xiake, Ming Dynasty)
​First Visit (1616, 44th Year of Wanli Reign)​​
On the last day of the third month in the year of Guichou, I descended from Baiyue Mountain and walked ten li to Tangkou. Another five li brought me to Tang Temple, where I bathed in the hot spring pool. Leaning on my staff, I gazed at Zhusha Hermitage and began climbing. After ten li, I reached Huangni Gang. The peaks that had been hidden in clouds earlier gradually emerged and slowly came beneath my staff. Turning into Shimen, I skirted the side of Tiandu Peak and climbed Lotus Peak, ascending to Pingtian Gang. Southeast of Pingtian Gang, a sheer cliff stood alone—that was the “Carp’s Back” (鲫鱼背). A fork in the road to the east led to a place I had never visited before, so I hurried forward, almost reaching the side of Tiandu Peak. Then I turned north and walked through clefts in the rocks. The stone peaks rose on both sides, the path winding through them—blocked sections were chiseled open, steep parts were carved into steps, broken areas were bridged with logs, and suspended sections were connected by ladders. Looking down, the deep valleys were gloomy and eerie, with maple and pine trees interspersed, their colors brilliant as embroidered silk. I thought, “Huangshan is the most extraordinary sight of my life. Such wonder, yet I had not explored it before—this journey is both exhilarating and shameful!”
My porters and servants, hindered by the difficult terrain, lagged behind, so I climbed alone, clinging to vines and rocks, and reached the summit of Tiandu Peak. The peak’s flat top was like a palm, with a boundless blue sky above, free of any obstruction. Gazing down, the mountains below resembled snails and hair buns, scattered at my feet. Clouds surged like waves, and the mountain peaks appeared as islands floating on the sea. After a long while, I returned to Pingtian Gang and followed the old path down.
​Second Visit (1633, 6th Year of Chongzhen Reign)​​
On the fourth day, I returned to Tangkou from Baiyue. Between Tang Temple and Ciguang Temple, I climbed Zhusha Peak. Peaks crowded together, each vying in beauty, as if arranged for my return. Passing Ciguang Temple, I turned left, where stone peaks encircled me, their steps covered with snow, gleaming like jade. Sparse trees grew thickly, and monks’ huts were faintly visible. After several li, I reached Tiandu Peak. The wind was fierce atop the high peak, and mist came and went unpredictably. My feet were numb, and I walked with a staff. At the summit, I looked down at the surrounding peaks—they seemed to bow and pay homage, clustered around me like children surrounding their elders.
On the fifth day, I climbed Lotus Peak. The summit was about ten square feet, concave like a cauldron, large enough to hold dozens of people. I sat inside, gazing up at Tiandu and Guangming Peaks, all within arm’s reach. Clouds shifted, sometimes parting, sometimes closing, and the peaks transformed—now like fairyland pavilions, now like beasts locked in combat. Descending Lotus Peak, I arrived at Yuping Peak. In front of the peak stood a giant rock like a screen, inscribed with “Jade Screen Wind” (玉屏风). Beside it grew an ancient pine with twisted branches, named “Guest-Greeting Pine” (迎客松).
On the sixth day, I admired the “Renzi Waterfall” (人字瀑). The waterfall split into two streams from the cliff, forming a “人” shape, its roar shaking the valley. Then I returned to Guangming Peak, whose flat expanse could hold ten thousand people. Looking around, all the mountains were visible. Clouds surged, and at sunrise, golden light bathed the peaks, their tips gilded.
On the seventh day, I left the mountain and arrived at Shexian County.

​背景补充​

​1. 作者与创作背景​

《游黄山日记》是明代地理学家、旅行家徐霞客​（1587年－1641年）所著《徐霞客游记》的重要篇章。此篇记录了他两次游历黄山（1616年、1633年）的经历，是现存最早的黄山详细游记之一。徐霞客一生足迹遍及大半个中国，其游记以“科学考察+文学描写”著称，被誉为“千古奇书”。
黄山位于安徽南部，以“奇松、怪石、云海、温泉”四绝闻名，被誉为“天下第一奇山”。徐霞客首次游黄山时，部分区域（如天都峰）尚未开发，其记录为后世研究黄山早期风貌提供了珍贵资料。

​2. 核心内容：地质奇观与四绝景观​

《游黄山日记》以两次游历为线索，重点记录了黄山的地质特征与“四绝”景观：

• ​地质奇观​：描写黄山的峰林地貌（如“鲫鱼背”“莲花峰”“天都峰”），如“石峰片片夹起，路宛转石间，塞者凿之，陡者级之”，展现了黄山“花岗岩峰林”的典型特征（现代地质学证实，黄山是距今约1亿年前火山喷发后经风化侵蚀形成的花岗岩地貌）。
• ​四绝景观​：
  • ​奇松​：记录“迎客松”（玉屏峰古松），其枝干盘曲如主人迎宾，成为黄山象征。
  • ​怪石​：如“鲫鱼背”（平天矼东南危崖）、“莲花峰”（顶如莲花凹陷），形态逼真。
  • ​云海​：“云海翻涌，峰尖若岛屿浮沉”“云雾时开时合，峰形变幻”，描绘了黄山云雾瞬息万变的特色。
  • ​温泉​：虽未详细描写，但提及“汤寺”“浴于汤池”，说明温泉已是当时游览的重要体验。

​3. 科学价值：首次系统考察黄山​

徐霞客的记录具有开创性意义：

• ​纠正前人误解​：明代以前文献多将黄山归为“黟山”（因山色青黑），徐霞客首次明确其“花岗岩峰林”特征，并详细记录各峰位置与形态，为后世地理研究奠定基础。
• ​地形描述​：对“石罅”（石缝）、“级之”（凿台阶）、“植梯”（架木梯）等登山路径的描写，反映了明代黄山开发的早期状态，与今日黄山“栈道”“索道”形成对比。
• ​水文观察​：记录“人字瀑”的分股飞泻现象，体现了对水流动力学的朴素认知。

​4. 文学价值：诗画交融的山水美学​

• ​动态比喻​：徐霞客善用动态比喻，如“峰形变幻，忽如仙山楼阁，忽如猛兽搏斗”，将静态山峰写得鲜活灵动。
• ​视角转换​：从“俯瞰群山，如螺如髻”到“仰观天都、光明顶，皆在襟袖间”，通过视角变化展现黄山立体之美。
• ​情感融入​：文中流露对自然的敬畏与热爱，如“云海翻涌，峰尖若岛屿浮沉”“坐其中，仰观诸峰，皆在衣袖间”，体现了“物我合一”的审美境界。

​5. 历史影响与现代意义​

• ​黄山开发​：徐霞客的记录推动了黄山知名度提升。清代康熙帝曾因《徐霞客游记》巡游黄山，并题写“黄海仙都”；今日黄山“迎客松”“莲花峰”等景点均源自其记载。
• ​文化象征​：黄山成为文人墨客的灵感源泉，清代石涛、现代刘海粟等均以黄山为题材创作；“黄山画派”亦受其影响。
• ​旅游文学典范​：徐霞客将科学考察与文学描写结合，开创了“游记文学”的新范式，被誉为“中国旅游文学的巅峰之作”。

​6. 《徐霞客游记》的整体价值​

《徐霞客游记》是中国古代最伟大的地理著作之一，也是世界最早的旅行文学经典。其特点包括：

• ​实证精神​：所有记录均来自实地考察，纠正了古代地理书籍的诸多错误（如长江正源为金沙江而非岷江）。
• ​跨学科价值​：涵盖地理、地质、水文、气候、生物、人文等领域，被誉为“百科全书式的游记”。
• ​文学性​：语言质朴却生动，将科学观察与文学描写完美结合，如“枫松相间，五色纷披，灿若图绣”。

​结语​

《游黄山日记》是徐霞客对黄山“四绝”景观的礼赞，也是中国山水文学与地理学的瑰宝。两次游历，既是一部科学考察记录，也是一篇诗画交融的散文。三百年后的今天，重读这篇日记，我们不仅能领略黄山的奇绝风光，更能感受到徐霞客“以脚步丈量山河，以笔墨书写真实”的探索精神——这种精神，正是中华文明对世界自然科学与人文学的重要贡献。